Dishwasher Help Forum

[gordmax]

Hello.

Firstly, great forum; wish I'd found it sooner!

I have a 4 year old Hoover Dishwasher model HD97E which last week decided to stop just before draining towards the end of the cycle with error E3. From the manual and another post on this forum (relating to the I presume similar HD98E) this appears to mean the dishwasher is 'not heating'!

To this end I initially replaced the element as the original was fairly corroded in parts so assumed it had simply given up the ghost. £25 and a few days later; wrong! So I've just replaced both the Thermostat and the 'NTC Temperature Sensor' which to my dismay have also been to no avail (but thankfully only £10 each)!

Does anyone have any ideas about what else it might be? Everything else about the unit appears to function as normal (fill, drain etc). I guess the only other thing I can think of that's involved is the pcb/module which I'm guessing won't be in the £20 area! Are there any reset switches, trip switches or fuses on the PCB that I could conviently press/replace or is this a job for the pros? I seem to recall that hoover guarantee their parts for 5 years as long as you use a hoover engineer?

Thanks in advance for any help/advice anyone can offer...

cheers
gordon
Penicuik, Scotland

[db4boy]

I have the same problem error code 3 has anyone got an answer to this problem?

[gordmax]

Hi db4boy

I didn't get any replies originally as you can see and ended up invoking the Hoover 5 year parts guarantee. A Hoover engineer came out and stripped down the inside of the door and replaced a wire that had broken that ran from the PCB panel behind the buttons and down inside the door and round to the rest of the gubbins.

I was out when he did it but my wife said the guy was quite unpleasant and condescending and as it turned out didn't do a very good job....(although it did fix the problem)

A year later the same problem occurred so I stripped the door down myself to find that he'd soldered in a replacement section of a yellow wire that was originally stretched too tightly inside the door causing it to break. The repair was also too tight and had broken again so I soldered in a new longer bit and it's still going strong to this day.

If you're OK with a cross-head screwdriver and don't mind patching in cables etc and make a careful note of the order you dismantle things in it was a fairly easy job. Of course E3 might be caused by any number of things but it sounds like you might have the same or similar issue?

Hope this helps you - or someone else - out (should have posted this 5 years ago!!).

cheers
gordon