Fridge And Freezer Forum

[gee_jay]

Hi Dave,

Thanks for your qiuck reply.

Since posting late Sat., had a "free" Sun. so decided to "have -a- go".

Unplugged the unit, + inside the frreezer was an easily removable ( 5 screws ) plastic sheet that exposed the fan + de-frost heater.
This was a solid block of ice!!!- including the drain hole.
[ Had noticed an ice build-up over last few months].

I "hair-dryered" the area, re-connected, + everything seems to be working O.K. freezer producing ice + fridge cooling down.

I appreciate what you say re thermo/timer - if I get the same "ice-blockage" in next few days, I will know where the problem lies [ you're right in that I don't have the right testing equipment ] + can look for an engineer to fix.

Will post the outcome,
Once again, many thanks for the advice

gee_jay.

[Dave_Conway]

if I get the same "ice-blockage" in next few days, I will know where the problem lies

It may take a few weeks to build up sometimes, or it may never happen again (accidently leaving the freezer door open can cause this).

Keep an eye on it though

Dave.

[freezer_user]

Hi me again, back with the original problem that started this post, however a bit more info!!

Having left the freezer for several weeks, decided to check back to see how much ice build-up there was. Sure enough the ice is building up again.

This time had a look more carefully at the components and have found the following info:

Looked carefully at the plastic black thing that is wired in series with the defrost element and written on it is T 72 degrees(a degree symbol). This must indicate it is the defrost switch, as 72F is 22C.

I measured the resistance of the heater and switch in series and it read 0.29 ohms.
The element spec is 160W at 220V as printed on the element itself.

Does the 0.29 ohms sound right?? Could i replace the black plastic switch with a standard metal one (why on earth my freezer manufacturer has to be different i dont know!)?

Is there a way i could put power to the heater to check it is working as it could be the PCB not turning it on? Or is there another test i could do with the volt meter to test the heater?

Hope thats not too many questions!!

Thanks in advance

Freezer_user

[Dave_Conway]

The heater sounds as if it's fine to me, it would be open circuit if either the cut out or the element had failed.

Almost certainly a pcb problem by the sounds of it

Dave.

[Willie]

Hi Gents

I purchased the above product from MFI 2 years ago. Both the fridge and freezer have stopped chilling, although power is still on to the unit (light still operating). Any ideas as to what the problem may be?

Best Regards

Willie

[Dave_Conway]

As above by the sounds of it Willie.

PCB failure more than likely.

Price is about £70 I think, it's back on the previous page.

Dave.

[BobM]

Hi,

I too have a problem with an APM 6825 bought from MFI 2 1/2 yrs ago.
I called the service number and was told there would be an £80 call out
charge which I am reluctant to pay with no outlook on total cost.

There is no cooling. The compressor runs but the heat exchanger coils only get slightly warm close to the compressor outlet. Is this likely to be a faulty
compressor? If so what would a replacement cost?

Any other suggestions?

BobM

[Dave_Conway]

Is this likely to be a faulty
compressor? If so what would a replacement cost

Either that or the gas is low (possible internal leak) or system blockage.

Compressor replacements are between £150 and £200 normally Bob, internal leaks and blockages are non-repairable on the whole.

Hope this helps.

Dave.

[BobM]

Dave,

That is what I needed to know.

Thanks

BobM

[chip]

With regards to checking the heaters.When the appliance is down in temp approx +5 degrees in fridge and -18 in freezer.switch appliance of for 30 seconds then switch back on the pcb will recognize the low temp in freezer and go in to a automatic defrost.Take the cowling off and feel heaters with your hand.

[Dave_Conway]

Hi All,
I to own am APM6825 ocean/brandt fridge freezer.
The problem is similar to those mentioned but not quite the same.
Here goes: The fridge appears to be warm at the bottom continuously.
I had a problem with the freezer and found the exchanger was iced up and the drain blocked. I followed the instructions posted here, took the panel off unblocked the hole and defrosted the exchanger - all apears fine with the freezer.

Does any one know how I can stop the auto-defrost in the fridge ?

Am I looking at a pcb fault ?

More than likely yes, it may also be the defrost heater.

I've done this as a quote as I have deleted the message due to the user name you have used.

Dave.

[Not a happy chappie]

Thanks Dave for the info,
apologies for user name -frustation setting in !!
re APM6825
How do I get to the defrost heater ?
It appears to be sealed behind the moulding of the fridge and is not as simple as the freezer.
I've looked at the reverse of the unit and there's no easy way to get to the reverse of the fridge section it appears to be sealed.
Any ideas ?

[Dave_Conway]

The defrost heater is in the freezer compartment, if it doesn't work correctly the ice build up will stop the air circulating in to the fridge.

Dave.

[Not a happy chapie]

Dave,
Thanks for your help so far.
The ice build up in the freezer is no longer happening. Items in the freezer are frozen.
The fridge appears to be "warm" when I feel the back of the compartment at the bottom.
However, the top feels cold.
I think it might be permanently defrosting ?
What do think ?
Any tests I can perform ? How do I disconnect the auto defrost ?

[Dave_Conway]

Possibly the PCB or a system failure by the sound of it in that case.

Perhaps it's time for an engineer ?

Dave.