Fridge And Freezer Forum

[kwatt]

Excuse me but the statement that they are not American is factual. They're not, to say that they are is misleading.

They are in fact American style side-by-sides designed for the European market and, to the best of my knowledge, they are not sold in the USA, Canada or any territory. For that I believe it's now mainly Mexican production.

I would also have thought that the Whirlpool European research and design team in Germany might just have had a hand in matters, not the US.

Just ask the Scottish Whisky industry about country or origin, or the French for a number of wines and cheeses, the English for ales and a plethora of other products that are harmed by what could be construed as misleading branding on country of origin.

So I won't apologise for being factually correct or, as factually correct as it is possible to be without a working inside knowledge of the business.

I will apologise for the Italian quip although, as was denoted by the smilie used, the comment was intended in jest.

K.

[eldar]

Ho Hum, More troubles:(

Whirlpool S20B RSS31 fridge/freezer..

The fridge is fine, 2c, the freezer isn't, warmer than the fridge!

No problems with the electronics - no flashing lights or clicking and the water dispenser works as it should.

The boards have been replaced/repaired a couple of times.

Is it terminal, or is there something repairable?

Thanks.

[RonG]

Hi all,

I read this entire tread and it was very helpfull for me.
My Whirlpool 858615101001 had some troubles (icemaker not working, waterflow not constant and freezer alarm). So i changed 9 elco's on the main board and it all worked again.
But then the display started flashing and beeping. Changed the elco's in the front panel and all worked fine for 1 day.

Now after a few hours the freezers starts beeping and shows -- in the display.

Is there anyone who can give me some hints what to do now??

Thanks in advance,

Ron

[kwatt]

Eldar,

Check the motorised baffle that allows air for the freezer to be drawn to the fridge is okay, looks like this...

http://shop.ukwhitegoods.co.uk/Refriger ... affle.html

Ron,

The "--" in the display is telling you that the freezer temperature is above -11˚C and therefore not suitable for food storage, it's not cooling correctly. There's a bit on the fault codes for these machines here:

http://www.ukwhitegoods.co.uk/help/fix- ... codes.html

A note on what the common causes are as well.

HTH

K.

[eldar]

Thanks for the pointer, Kwatt,

The fridge is fine, and the vent works fine. On further investigation I think its probably loss of refrigerant. I've removed the ducting from the freezer, and had a look at the cooling element. After 30 minutes running the bottom part is -10c changing to about 3c at the top. Thus its producing enough chilled air to keep the fridge cool, but not enough for the freezer to get below -2. At least that is my guess...

Given its now 10 years old, I think its reached the end of its useful life.

Anyone any views on this as a replacement? I'm not inclined to spend £1500 again, so I though I'd try cheap and cheerful..

http://www.dixons.co.uk/gbuk/beko-gnev3 ... 5-pdt.html

[kwatt]

Just now there isn't an SBS unit (apart from perhaps the Liebherr one) that I'd honestly recommend wholeheartedly. You pays your money...

K.

[r600a]

Hi.

Is the condenser fan running ? Is the condenser clear of all fluff ect ?

Bryan

[EFS]

Have a feel of the central mullion between the two doors.
If it is quite hot and not just slightly warm then you have a condenser cooling problem.
Check condenser for accumulation of pet hairs (remove bottom grille) which is a common problem and check condenser fan is working.

Steve.

[RonG]

Update:

I checked the condensor fan and it is running.
There is no ice in the freezer and the fan is also working.

I removed the back module and i will order a new orange relais to replace the old one.
Hope it solves the problem.

[GavinW]

Amazing that ths thread is still going! I finally gave in and got rid of mine so if anyone can find a use for my spare front and rear boards then they're very welcome to them -- they're on ebay, just to cover postage:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/140702440412

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/140702436049

Gavin

[RonG]

Update:

I replaced all the relay's on the back board and everything is working fine for more then a week now.
So the problem where the elco's and the relay's (specially the orange one).

thank for all the info everyone.

Greetinx Ron

[Southuk]

My model is 8586 152 15010 - 11 030 019041
The front controller flashes and the piezo buzzer clicks (sounds like a relay). Speed is dependant on the number of lights / functions enabled. In standby mode (off) the two dots show and all is calm.

Freezer is freezing fine. Internal lights work. Fans turn off when doors are opened. Fridge doesn't get cold enough which I assume is because of the tiny amout of air blowing through the vent at the top (when I hold the door sensor down)

I have tried replacing the capacitors on the rear board and one of the electrolytics on the front board to no avail.

What should I try next? Replace the boards or could it be as simple as the motorised vent at the top of the fridge?

[kwatt]

Let me put it this way... check the motorised baffle first as they do fail, which is usually this one or similar..

http://shop.ukwhitegoods.co.uk/Refriger ... affle.html

K.

[Southuk]

Thank you for the advice. The vent was broken - two tiny blobs of superglue and the fridge is now working!

Unfortunately the control panel is still flashing and clicking and it takes a few attempts for the buttons to respond.

Do you do a replacement capacitor pack for the front board like you do for the back board (delivered next day with a helpful sheet - fantastic service)? Or am I going to have to replace the whole board?

Thank you once again

[kwatt]

I know Brodders had a mod to repair it but, it involves changing stuff from the original setup so we chose not to supply the caps because, to be blunt, there's loads of people out there that should never be let near a soldering iron and someone would likely fry themselves or their fridge.

It means (IIRC) wiring dangling off the board as the original capacitors are not available from anywhere, both Brodders and I tried everywhere to find them with no luck.

So, with all that in mind we decided it was best not to mess with it and that, if someone had the nonce to DIY it then that's absolutely fine or paid Brodders to do it for them, again totally fine. But, given the givens it was best not to offer the caps for sale.

If you're not inclined to muck about and tinker I'd advice a new board. However, it should be noted that if you are okay with messing about a bit you've little to lose by trying as the board is toast anyway.

HTH

K.