Fridge And Freezer Forum

Update and thanks for those of you who thought about a reply. To assist others with similar problems this is what I did;
1. Removed the cover plate at the rear - all seemed to be working OK but the compressor inlet and outlet did not seem overly warm. Fan working.
2. Removed the back cover to the freezer compartment - all iced up - so melted the ice with ahair dryer after turningoff the fridge/freezer. No apparent holes, breaks etc.
3. Removed the top section of the backing cover to reveal the upper fan and motor. removed the ice from the motor( no idea why it had ice on it)and found that the electric connection to the motor for the fan was not a through connection. Appears that water had got into the connection and expanded when freezing breaking the electric circuit.
4. Replugged after cleaning away the water and the fridge / freezer works like it never has before! Unusual fault but at least it did not cost anything to repair and only about an hour to strip and rebuild.Fingers crossed that none of the capacitors or other electrics are faulty but there is no ice after a week.
N

Hi folks, slightly different problem to most.

I've had no chattering of relays at all, display fine, everything pretty much fine - water, ice, etc. Tonight I opened the fridge, after 10s the light goes out and the display goes blank (back light still working).

The compressor is not working, nor the fan. There is no build up of ice behind the panels in the freezer either, I also hoover the dust out now & then too.

Is this the capacitor fault on the rear board possibly? I've not put power directly to the compressor yet, but can do.

Ser nos are: 8586 158 15030 & 11 0631 006745.

Any help much appreciated pls!

Peter

Direct power to anything, never mind a compressor, is a very, very, very bad idea and one that will often result in sparks, blown fuses, tripped RCDs and if that all fails, very probably serious injury or death.

In other words, don't do it, it's terminally stupid.

Safety devices are there for a reason. To be by-passed by someone with a death wish, isn't the reason.

It sounds like a rear board fault if the display blanks but it could be compressor or overload related so, if you try what you're thinking, you'll blow the compressor windings sky high and still not solve the problem, just create more.

Sorry for being so blunt.

K.

I appreciate your reply - but if the board puts 240V to the compressor (which I presume it would do), what is the difference of me putting 240V to it?

My thoughts were that if the compressor was gone, then we'd probably be best to scrap it - if not it might be worth salvaging.

That said, the fan is also off, the interior fridge light is off, the water and ice won't work either. I just get a single click when I switch it on & a back-lit display with nothing on it - no buttons operate either.

Anymore thoughts on how to proceed ..?

petercherry wrote:I appreciate your reply - but if the board puts 240V to the compressor (which I presume it would do), what is the difference of me putting 240V to it?

But it's regulated by the relay/klixon, not raw.

With the symptoms the best guess and, it is a guess, is that the rear control board has failed.

K.

You were correct kwatt - thanks. One of your members came out yesterday & changed it - keeping our fingers crossed it holds out and doesn't go again.

I know the capacitors can go which causes individual parts to fail, but do you know what fails on them to make everything shut down?

It's nice to have it back working anyway!

Cheers, Peter

Just a quick note to say, thank you so much for this site, and thank you so much UK Whitegoods for providing the kit:

http://shop.ukwhitegoods.co.uk/Refriger ... r+Kit.html

I've got an FRSS36AF25/3 exhibiting the classic failing rear PCB symptoms, and unfortunately, before finding this site, I replaced the water valve, and the water filter housing (it was leaking anyway), so I wasted about 60 quid on a useless repair.

But, I'm happy to report that the capacitors on the rear board completely solved my problem (which was juddery water and partially filling ice-maker). I changed all the caps for good measure.

On a related note, my ice dispenser motor failed around 3 years ago, it showed an open circuit when I removed it, so I carefully cut open the plastic housing, and discovered a tiny circuit board, which had 2 dry solder joints on it causing the open circuit. I re-soldered all the joints, and "joined" the plastic casing back together with wire and duct tape, and it's been working fine ever since. Cheaper than a new motor.

Thanks again,
Mike

I have a S20D RWW30-A/G (Service 858615915000 110421021707) which the freezer is currently playing up. I repaired the rear PCB about 18 months ago, thanks to a kit bought from broddersbaldrick, after suffering the sputtering water etc. This time the water dspenser, ice and fridge appear fine, but the freezer keeps warming up and showing the two dashes and the warning triangle. I have remove the rear freezer panel and there is no build up of ice. The fan is working, although the casing is cracked, but this doesn't seem to interfear with its operation. I also found a large build up of dust and crap behind the front bottom panel. I have hoovered this out but freezer still not working properly. Would really appreciate any help. Ta

I have the S25BRSS31-A/G model purchased in June 2003. Took out the 8-year parts warranty, which obviously expired last June. During that time we have had 2 rear boards replaced, one front board and the ice maker. Alarm with dashes started early hours of Christmas Day morning(!) and lost temperature in fridge and freezer. Saw repair advice on this site and ordered repair kit. Fitted replacement capacitors and refitted rear board but still not working. Gave both front and rear boards to electronics expert who tested them and replaced some more faulty components on front board. Refitted both boards but still no joy!!

Shouldn't be any ice anywhere as appliance has been empty and not working since Christmas Day. Fans are operating but compressor isn't. Is it likely then that the compressor is defective and, if so, is my most economical solution to buy a new fridge freezer in view of the known ongoing problems with these models?

Any help / advice much appreciated!!

HI,
we had our 7 yrold whirlpool repaired 3 wks ago.
The engineer replaced all the capacitors on the rear board.It was fine for 2 wks but now it is leaking water from the bottom,the top of the freezer dept is not freezing,there is frost lower in the freezer and it is running constantly.Will a rear board change cure this?
Any help appreciated aswe are just about to clear the freezer out!

Hi! Can anyone help me? My Whirlpool US F/F (model: 20RBD3J serial: 858 644 115 010) has been ticking from the back for a few weeks now. Over the weekend I have found it is now not producing ice or freezing anything I put in there. At the moment it is keeping everything frozen which is already frozen but I think it maybe slightly defrosting. It is certainly not working properly. The water dispenser works fine and the ticking doesn't stop if we open the doors. We only bought this in May 2009 wouldn't have thought it would be having problems so soon! Any help to get it fixed would be absolutely fabulous. Thanks Alex.

Almost all the problems on these fridge freezers, with the clicking anyway, seem to be board related.

Replacing the capacitors on the rear control board solves most of the problems but, not all of them. The only way to know in all honesty is to try it and see if it works.

With the not cooling thing though I'd be concerned that there was something else wrong as that's not a normal report when this happens.

K.

Thanks for the response kwatt. The electronics guy was confident that both my boards were working ok after his repairs so I'm sure the problems with my appliance are being caused by something else. It was definitely worth spending a tenner to try the replacement capacitor kit and I'm sure that solution will work for a lot of people. However, with the known reliability issues and the ridiculous cost of Whirlpool parts, I think it's time to say "enough's enough" and scrap it! I'm going for Bosch next time for some quality German engineering and steering clear of another American Side-by-Side effort!!

Thing is, they're not American this machines, they're made in Italy.

Who are of course world renowned for their outstanding quality on electrics and electronics... not.

K.

kwatt wrote:Thing is, they're not American this machines, they're made in Italy.

Who are of course world renowned for their outstanding quality on electrics and electronics... not.

K.

Before making such considerations you should think before. Whirlpool isn't an italian company, and the italian factory built what they (Whirlpool) planned to build, according to their design.