Dishwasher Help Forum

started out as intermitant draining then not draining at all.Program then stalls and has to be manually drained, then will restart and sometimes complete a cycle.
No blockages, pump can be heard running normally (when it does drain)
This machine is only a couple of years old and very lightly used, probably only once a week. Any ideas anyone?

Thanks in advance,
Tim

Might be worth taking the pump off and examine it for signs of wear, they can jam when worn.


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Its a BFI620 and at a guess is at least five or six years old.

If you give us the full serial number and any other numbers we can date it correctly.

100% Indesit

Depending on the serial number it can have the drain pump circuit routed through the main wash motor.

One way to test this is to leave it after has failed for five or six hours and then try and get it to drain, if it does then drain it would suggest that the main circulation motor/pump is failing.

When the machine 'stalls' you should get some of the lights on the top of the door flashing.

6 years? thats a surprise - was fitted new about 2 yrs ago with a kitchen package. NOS I guess then..

Its my Mum's, I'll run it like you say and get the serial number and report back.

Thanks for the help.

ok ... here's the info -

s/n 50520 3196

run on normal cycle, stalls, water in mchine, lights 2 and 3 flashing. left 6 hrs will not restart.

manually drained and repeated as above, same result BUT now lights 2 and 4 flashing.....

does this help?

Thanks again,
Tim

Sounds like its in a bad way, but then it was made on the 20th of May 2005.

2+3 is supposed to be a fill problem. Tap, Inlet valve, connections, PCB, water turbine.

2+4 is more common and is a no heat error message, 95% of the time a no heat fault is caused by either a faulty heater or a PCB fault.

I know this is a bit late, I had a similar problem, from switching it on after about 2mins it would stop with LED 2&4 flashing. Reading the forums it was anything from the heater, Control module, blocked pipe or pump?
Checked the heater which was OK about 25-27 Ohms, the pump was ok as it was draining ok, on checking the control board, found the connector attached to FST2 on the corner of the board 'cooked' which had also taken out the PCB track. Put a new link in checked and is now working ok. Not quite sure how the machine checks the heater is U/S unless it expects it to get to a certain temperature within a certain time? or checks to see if current is being drawn, (not sure if this module is clever enough for this?) but then it should work on the 'Rinse' cycle only shouldn't it as this requires no heating? As I say this was my experience. Hope it helps someone?