Australasian Appliance Forum

Can anyone provide a set of diagnostic codes for this washing machine as F&P Australia will not provide them?
If not, an interpretation of the following would be appreciated:
00000101 0000
00011111 0001
00000100 0010
10001000 0011
00000000 0100
10001111 0101
00000011 0110
00011111 0111
00001111 1000
10001111 1001
00000011 1010
00000000 1011
00001001 1100
00010001 1101
00010000 1110
00000000 1111
The stator has numerous (about 6) small breaks in the wiring, without any evidence of overheating or corrosion or arcing, except arcing evidence in one place - near the middle sensor, which has arced across to the winding and is obviously smoked, although the wire, even here, doesn't seem to be burnt. Can anyone explain a possible cause for this problem?
I'm hoping that replacing the stator and sensor will fix the machine without having to replace the boards as well.

Turn machine OFF on the front panel. Hold down the Water Temp Down button and press the POWER button. Release buttons. You are in Diagnostic mode. Press the spin speed up button until the hold and slow are lit. Write down the LEDS which are lit across the top row of progress LEDS. This is muck quicker than posting everything .

Thats what I did, but I know from experience that too much information is always better that not enough, so I've given the complete set of diagnostic readouts, plus other physical observations in the hope that someone can help.
The ideal solution of course would be if someone who has the codes could scan and post them, then a lot of the questions I see posted on this forum would be unnecessary.
Thanks Guys

F+P hold the copyright for the fault codes, they cannot be posted anywhere other than the secure service area on the F+P website.

The fault is a motor stall fault 10001000. Replace the stator and see what happens. Usually it is the motor controller that is faulty, but with the dodgey stator, I would try this first.

Many thanks - I will try to get a used stator (at least until I'm sure the controller is ok) - it still amazes me that the stator can have so many open circuits, with no apparent signs of overheating. The breaks look quite clean, no signs of frying or arcing. As an electronics engineer of over 40 years experience, I have never seen anything like this. I have had a close look at the windings on the open-circuit poles and they all have what looks like bluish-green deposits in the vicinity of the breaks. Could be corrosion, but why only in some places, when the rest of the windings are so clean (machine only 2 years old). Have you ever seen anything like this? I would rewind the affected poles, but I suspect that would only be a temporary fix.
p.s. I'm reluctant to involve F&P in the repair as when my daughter's GW501 died, the authorised F&P man said (without even pulling the covers off) that the main board was blown and would need replacing along with the display board at a cost of $400. After she bought a new F&P, I pulled the covers off the old one and 30 minutes later after replacing a $3.50 MOSFET, had the machine going again. Sorry about the gripe, but this is just to explain why I am trying to fix this myself (not to do a serviceman out of a job).

About the $3.50 MOSFET, as you well know, everybody cant know everything. Appliance servicing involves very little formal electronic repair training, and this is something you hear from a few people "I took it to a TV repair place and he fixed the fault in the board for $50". But the big thing is it took him 1 hour, and 20 years in the electronics industry, to fix it. And they had to wait a week for it, after the repair guy had been out and told them what was wrong. I can understand the frustration people feel especially when they have bought a new washer, but he was probably not trying to rip you off, but just doesnt know about the finer points of electronics.

Regarding the Washer, F+P are a very resonable company to deal with, phone them with a date of sale and a serial no and see what they say.
Although it may be best if you reassemble the machine before the repair guy arrives. , and maybe dont tell F+P about the stator, as you will be admiting to voiding the warranty.

Good luck, and let us know how you get on.

The newer F&Ps have no base so if your machine is over or near the floor drain soap subs will enter the base of the machine causeing corrosion on the stator Fault codes wont help on this one.
The module will blow before it can damage the motor.
Agree with k on the F&P repair I tried to fix a module for a customer once when I found out the problem was firmware she said I didnt know what I was doing and would get someone who did. Thanks a lot.
She had to buy a module in the end from a friend of mine
He told me all the names she was calling me he put her straight.
Im much worse than that.

Well, I tried a new stator and sensor.
Now, when the start button is pressed, the solenoids pulse a few times with the rotor attempting to turn, then everything stops with the machine beeping and 0000 1010 displayed.
The diagnostic codes are now as follows:
0000 00000101
0001 00011111
0010 00000100
0011 10001000
0100 00000000
0101 10001111
0110 00000011
0111 00000001
1000 00000000
1001 10001111
1010 00000011
1011 00000000
1100 0000010X (X pulsing)
1101 00010001
1110 00010000
1111 00000000
My guess is that the motor is trying to turn but is not being sensed because while the sensor is ok, the input to the controller is not, having been probably destroyed in the original flashover, so the machine goes into fault mode.
Can anyone confirm this from the diags?
I am prepared to try replacing a few parts on the controller if necessary, so hopefully the fault can be localised to either the motor driver, or (more probably) the input from the motor sensor.
Thanks in anticipation
Ray

All the book says re the fault is the motor controller has been unable to start the motor rotating.\

Good luck!

The gw611 uses the later motor with small termimals 24 ohm resistance.Check the resistance and the wires are on ok RYB on motor.
no corosion on the RPS,
Perhaps get the module tested on a machine before you try to fix it.
Also the 611 tends to detroy the CPU on faults making repair imposible anyway. Also check pump 33 ohms to 36 ohms
It may be time to cut your losses on this one
Good Luck from me as well

This machine isn't going to beat me that easily, but it's getting close.
The module tests good on another machine, my machine now has a new stator and RPS. The solenoids measure 63 ohms each, stator is 31 ohms phase to phase, the thermistor is 10974 ohms at 21 degrees C, lid lock 67 ohmsthe module senses if either of the solenoids is disconnected on switch-on, yet it still always turns on with error 49 (at address 3) indicating a solenoid problem.
I'm completely out of ideas at the moment.
Does anyone have any ideas?
Many thanks
Ray

Found the answer - a trap for new players.
I had the module tested by a shop that repairs them, and it checked out ok.
I didn't realise at the time that they tested it with their keyboard, so the error I was seeing was a "sizing" error.
The machine now works like a dream.
Thanks for the support along the way guys. Much appreciated.
Ray