Dishwasher Help Forum

This started this morning - worked OK last night.

Pumps (circulation & drain) appear to work ok but when (I guess) it starts to heat the water it just causes the mains board RCD (the socket ring overload switch stays on) to switch off.

It doesn't matter which program its on so that probably excludes the program selector switch (??).

Can cause this fault repeatedly.. have not looked inside yet.

Suggestions would be very welcome.

Thanks,

Handwasher

Hi Handwasher,

First things first, pull the plug out ! and making sure the crocks have all been removed from inside. Try drawing the machine forward so that you can tilt it backwards at an angle of about 45 degrees hold it there for about ten seconds or so and see if water comes out of the lower back of the appliance.

If it does then do not plug the machine back in as it means that there is an internal leak within the machine. If this proves to be the case then call in an engineer as this is not a job for the unexperienced.

regards Del

Hi Del,

Tnx for the advice.

Have tried as you said but nothing came out.

But interestingly, there is a damp concretion around the base-side s/steel plates' seal at the back.

This morning there was a small amount of water (a couple of drops) down from the concretion onto the mains wire inlet connector, but I dried that water up (mains off) before trying again.

Do you think a damp mains inlet connection might have caused a current leak onto the earth (when under high load - heater) and caused the mains RCD to trip?

If so, how do you re-seal the base & side so its watertight again?

Thanks,

Handwasher

Any dampness or water around electrical leads or connections can and often will cause the RCD to trip, that is exactly what it is there for.

The only thing I can suggest that again with the plug pulled out, you try to investigate where the dampness or water is coming from but only if the source is external to the appliance.

If you susspect that the leak is internal, then really it's a job for a proffessional.

Del

Handwasher wrote:but when (I guess) it starts to heat the water it just causes the mains board RCD (the socket ring overload switch stays on) to switch off.

Duff heater then?

Hi Del & Martin,

Well, I took the mains inlet connector cover off this morning (they don't make it simple do they!) and guess what? The wires are all covered in water. Have left them top dry..might take off the first 4 inches or so of the cable just to be on the safe side.

Can't see any tracking though, but a water short to earth is often that way. We get them on shore supply units at a marina near me. Always taking the site mains supply RCD switch down when it rains!

The water source appears to be the join between the sheets of s/steel all along the back where the s/st bowl is connected to the s/st wall. They overlap here. It all damp & crusty here. But when I cleaned it back, no obvious leak appeared.

But there is the possibility that the water source is in fact the riser tube feeding the upper shower. But can't see any "history" of a leak there. Won't know if its there until I switch it back on again. Where-ever it is, its not very large. A couple of drops a cycle.

I'll take a look for water inside the cover at the base, just to be on the safe side.

Yes it could be the "water heater", if a burned or burning heater can cause an RCD rather than a straight overload. Not sure about that one, but thanks anyway. I'll investigate that if the water problem turns out not to be a fix.

A big thanks to you Del for helping me out. I reckon it might still need a pro, unless I'm lucky.

I'll post more info as and when I get any.

Regards,


Handwasher

FYI.

Having,

checked it for leaks.

cleaned it off along seal

taken wiring off dried it up and left it for 2 days in the sun.


I put it back together - tested it - it now works - but can find no leak....

So -- had an idea -- the previous leakage had occured on one side only..

water limescale/soda trails give that away.

So I have adjusted the back leveling pads so that the water level does not go up to the base seal at the back either side.

Hopefully, that should stop any leak. And might account for why I couldn't get it to leak when I tested it out from its normal position.

The floor is a little uneven and I remember having had the machine cut out when I installed it because of the slope. I had to adjust the feet to get it to work (there some sort of water level cut out built-in).

Perhaps it was a little to backward facing (??).

Whatever.. its on its second cycle now and we're all glad here...

Will post again only if there's another interuption. Will view for the next couple of days if anyone has any questions.

I'm off to Comet tomorrow - my DVD recorder I got for xmas went on the blink yesterday. Beam me a new one up Scotty.

Thanks very much for all you help.

Handwasher (as was)

Well done.

For the benefit of other readers, be advised that the difference between the operating water level and flood is tiny - quite literally a hair trigger, and water will overflow into the base of the machine for no obvious reason. Getting the machine level in both horizontal planes is pretty important.

Additionally - ensure that filters and rotors are kept scrupulously clean and that heavy food deposits are rinsed off the crockery and cookware prior to washing.

Regards,
Penguin45.

I am not impressed by this machine. The dg6145 is leaking water all over the floor from the right hand front side of the door as I write.

Soon after we bought it (well, just after the warranty expired) it packed in. The bitumous coating presumably there as sound proofing had come unglued, and draped itself across the electrics in the bay. A probable fire hazard, and a definate a design fault.

The rubbish filter keeps coming out of position, and cr@p gets through to the spray arms, which are difficult to clear.

Care has to be taken removing the bottom spray arm, if you loosen the wrong bit you will let water through into the electrics bay. Dont worry, there's a float switch in there to turn it off when the water gets sufficiently high (I kid not).


Every so often it leaks, as at the moment, for no obvious reason.

The wash pump started making funny noises, and ended up jammed with the motor buzzing. new pumps are not available, you have to buy the pump/motor assembly together, for about 150 quid delivered. It appears to have been fixed by shimming the pump shaft with a nylon washer, will see how long this fix lasts. All in all not a machine I would recommend to anyone.

It's probably worth spending the extra on a Bosch or some such quality brand.

Rant over.

2n3055

So other than that you are happy with it:lol:
Welcome to Indesit. Nothin but problematic. Trya nice Bosch or Miele; yo u will see the difference.

Greg