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Hotpoint TCM65 not drying properly

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Hotpoint TCM65 not drying properly

Postby Alopex » Wed Nov 30, 2011 12:22 pm

Morning ukwg,

I have an old TCM65 which is not drying properly.

When the dryer is set to cotton/one waterdrop it dries as though it was set to cotton/3 drops ie slightly damp. When set to cotton/2 drops it doesn't dry nor when it is set to cotton/3. It will do the same when set to synthetics/1 drop on a light load only otherwise it won't dry even on synth/1.

So far I have replaced both rear thermostats (130 and 106) as well as the front 'stat (behind the door seal). I also replaced the heater coil/element as it was damaged when I slipped during the 'stat change (cat underfoot).

When the machine is running the back gets hot (very warm but not too hot to touch) from the radiated heat of the element and air is flowing properly as well as getting warm (the door also gets slightly warm). The filter and warm air path are clean. The condenser and cold air path are also checked clean (thorough vaccuming with sides off). The tank is empty and does receive water during drying. An odd note: when the cotton/1 cycle finishes the clothes are cool rather than the usual warm.

The electrical contact on the rear of the bearing is clean and the brush contact on the drum slip ring is making good contact.

There are 3 things I'm thinking:

1. The drying sensor is u/s (how can I check this?)
2. The control board/module is u/s (ditto check?)
3. There may be a loose/frayed wire/contact.

I do hope someone can help me fix this machine as I simply cannot afford to buy a new one.

Thanks

Alopex
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Re: Hotpoint TCM65 not drying properly

Postby iadom » Wed Nov 30, 2011 4:31 pm

Special test equipment needed to check sensor, a visual check is the only simple check you can do on the PCB, thats unless of course you are seriously into electronics at board level. You can often see signs of burning on the back of the PCB near the top close to the connector block.

Loose wires etc can only really be found by visual inspection or by testing with suitable equipment and a wiring diagram.

It could be a blocked or gunged up float chamber or a faulty valve between the float chamber and the water container. This usually results in the 'Empty water' light coming on though.
That which can be asserted without evidence, can be dismissed without evidence.
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