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Bosch Logixx 8 Powers OFF when Filling in Softening Stage

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by sintro » Thu Apr 12, 2018 7:09 am

I have a 7 years old Bosch WAS32742AU/08 washer, it will wash, rinse then it will power itself OFF with nothing on the display when it reaches the softening stage where it begins to fill with water, there is about 20 to 10mins left in the cycle depending on the program.

I can turn the dial OFF then back to the same program to resume the cycle, it will start filling with water again in the softening stage and power off again. I've checked the water level pressure switch hose and cleaned the chamber, I don't think there is a problem with that because it works during the cycle until the softening stage.

I can run and complete the "Drain only" cycle, "Rinse only" cycle, "Spin only" cycle and "15min Quick" cycle without interruptions. It's only programs that has the Softening stage of the cycle it powers off when filling water in the middle dispenser compartment during when Valve 1 and Value 2 are open.

I don't even use softener and the compartment is clean. The current work around is when it Powers OFF during softening, I turn the dial to OFF then select the rinse only cycle to complete the washing. I got into the test program and ran the valve test and found that Value 1 and Valve 2 tests are OK individually but when it V1 and V2 are both ON to fill the middle softener dispenser compartment it doesn't stop filling and eventually the machine powers off.

I posted a video of the test here:
https://player.vimeo.com/video/264199360

I also checked the aquastop hose didn't find any signs of a leak or damage, there's also no signs of water anywhere inside the unit.

Is there a training manual like this https://www.manualslib.com/manual/80524 ... =68#manual available for the WAS32742AU/08 model?

When I went into the test program to do a Valve test this morning and it didn't power itself OFF and fill up to the max water level as suggested the test would do in the above training manual, it filled up to the point where the F31 error code showed up. (F31 - Water level error. Exceeding the maximum allowable value). But in a subsequent valve test it powered itself off.

Also in option to display the errors in the previous 8 washes one of them had the following code.
F50 , 0 , 0 , 0, 0

I haven't been able to find any information on what F50 means.

Can anyone help diagnose this problem? Thanks
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by sintro » Wed May 16, 2018 1:03 pm

The symtoms has deteriorated.
Now it stops and powers itself OFF randomly during the cycle even on the Spin only and Rinse only cycles. When it powers OFF if I leave it for long enough it will power itself back ON again and continue and then it might power off and resume again until it finishes.

The current symptom is exactly like what this person described in this review https://www.productreview.com.au/qa/bos ... ml#q250424 but I haven't been able to contact them regarding their solution.

Has anyone experienced this problem before?

I went into test mode and it will power itself off during spin only test, valve only test and heater only test. Could it be a faulty Interference Capacitor (mains filter)?
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by 1totalshambles » Wed May 23, 2018 9:33 am

Odd fault, congrats! May well be nothing to do with any connection with the valves the machine just happens to mess up then - stranger things are known with appliances! Because of your recent developments I would, at least here in Blighty, have a good look at the machines electrical socket, then I would have a look at the machines suppressor, though not very common component to fail. Failing to then find anything I would cut the mains plug off and fit a new one. But before anyone wields a pair of pliers it is better if you can get the machine to run first then get it to mess up then wiggle mains lead near, presumed a moulded plug, which may or may not prove something and if you have a mains test lead screwdriver see if you have power, a live, to and then out of the suppessor when things have gone wrong preferably without blowing it up or yourself!.
If no matter what you do you always have power then it COULD be the main circuit board fooling around though as you know that is the very last resort.
To me it looks like a duff wall socket, presume it is not on an extension lead - tut tut! - or it is a plug issue. Have a look at those points before buying anything.

Come to think about it someone else came a cropper in the same way a week or so ago so read this too:

Classixx 1200 washing machine stops mid-cycle

by alpha123 » Wed May 16, 2018 10:13 pm
E-Nr : WAE 24164GB/30

Somewhere between 5 minutes and 15 minutes into a wash cycle, my washing machine stops and all the lights go out. If I turn the knob back to off and leave it for something more than about 5 minutes and then turn it back to the wash cycle, it will carry on and often, but not always, finish the whole cycle.

I thought it might be a problem with the power board, but I put a new one in and got exactly the same behaviour.

I have the exploded parts diagram and list of parts but can't work out what the problem is. The possibilities seem to include..
a. The operating module (which LOOKED fine when I inspected it while replacing the power module, but obviously could be faulty)
b. The Capacitor-interference suppressor (that doesn't seem very likely, but then I know next to nothing about white goods).
c. The door lock (but would that turn out all the lights?)
d. The Sensor-NTC (don't know what this is)
e. The Regulator-Water level (would this turn all the lights out?)

All suggestions welcome.

Thank you.


Re: Bosch Classixx 1200 washing machine stops mid-cycle

by 1totalshambles » Fri May 18, 2018 8:59 pm
" I have the exploded parts diagram and list of parts but can't work out what the problem is. The possibilities seem to include..
a. The operating module (which LOOKED fine when I inspected it while replacing the power module, but obviously could be faulty)
b. The Capacitor-interference suppressor (that doesn't seem very likely, but then I know next to nothing about white goods).
c. The door lock (but would that turn out all the lights?)
d. The Sensor-NTC (don't know what this is)
e. The Regulator-Water level (would this turn all the lights out?) "

1Totalshambles reply.
I see your dilemma having lashed out on a power board.
Start at the sealed mains plug and mains socket as I have these fail in a way similar / edit: same way / as you describe.
As a general run as to how these things goof up:
a) operating module. Could be but not common, your very last resort. That is all I can say. b) Get the machine to screw up, remove the lid off the machine, any kids around tell them skadoodle off out of the area, pull out the out put connector wire pair from the suppress. Get a mains test light screwdriver and test the live input tag on the suppressor ( i.e. the brown wire and if you have zilch it is the lead or the plug or the socket, it is usually the moulded plug fooling around but if you do get a light via screwdriver test to that live tag on the previously removed connector block however, and better still, if you have a multimeter you can test live in, neutral out on the input tags and the output L and N to prove suppressor is ok or not. Suppessor failure is not common on these.c) door lock itself won`t be that but check its plug in wires d) NTC sensor is the electronic thermostat thing that is pushed into the heater. Won`t be that. e) the pressure water level sensor switch very unlikely but once again check its wires.

Normally I do not recommend any live testing for Joe Public but in this case this is the only live testing you should do to prove a point given the rather off beat fault that you have. Do not under any circumstances when live testing the suppressor accidentally slip the testing leads off the L and N output terminals, which are very close to each other, together unless you like a large bang and a blown fuse at the minimum!! Be very careful.


Re: Bosch Classixx 1200 washing machine stops mid-cycle

by alpha123 » Sun May 20, 2018 1:38 pm
It turns out it WAS the sealed mains plug. I had already changed the fuse (even though the old one seemed fine), but it didn't occur to me that the actual switch would be faulty - at least not in a way that it would cut in and out pretty much at random.

So I've got a new mains plug and all is well.

Thank you very much indeed for your detailed reply. Next time I need some parts, I will buy them from you.
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