UK Whitegoods Domestic Appliance Help & Support Forums

Washing Machine Help Forum

Bosch Classixx 1200 washing machine stops mid-cycle

This forum is for support, help and questions you have about washing machines and washer dryers. For washing machine spares click here

Get spare parts for washing machines

Buy washing machine spare parts in our store for all major washing machine makes and models including many low cost compatible spares or contact us and we will find the parts you need for you

 Get Spare Parts Cheap

Buy many cheap spare parts in our store including many compatible parts for all major brands including Hotpoint, Whirlpool, Smeg, AEG, Beko, LG, Samsung and many, many more.

 Click to email, tell us what you need and we'll find the parts you need

shop spare parts
    
    
    
    
     
    
    

by alpha123 » Wed May 16, 2018 9:13 pm

E-Nr : WAE 24164GB/30

Somewhere between 5 minutes and 15 minutes into a wash cycle, my washing machine stops and all the lights go out. If I turn the knob back to off and leave it for something more than about 5 minutes and then turn it back to the wash cycle, it will carry on and often, but not always, finish the whole cycle.

I thought it might be a problem with the power board, but I put a new one in and got exactly the same behaviour.

I have the exploded parts diagram and list of parts but can't work out what the problem is. The possibilities seem to include..
a. The operating module (which LOOKED fine when I inspected it while replacing the power module, but obviously could be faulty)
b. The Capacitor-interference suppressor (that doesn't seem very likely, but then I know next to nothing about white goods).
c. The door lock (but would that turn out all the lights?)
d. The Sensor-NTC (don't know what this is)
e. The Regulator-Water level (would this turn all the lights out?)

All suggestions welcome.

Thank you.
User avatar
alpha123
Whitegoods Newbie
Whitegoods Newbie
 
Posts: 2
Joined: Wed May 16, 2018 8:52 pm

by 1totalshambles » Fri May 18, 2018 7:59 pm

" I have the exploded parts diagram and list of parts but can't work out what the problem is. The possibilities seem to include..
a. The operating module (which LOOKED fine when I inspected it while replacing the power module, but obviously could be faulty)
b. The Capacitor-interference suppressor (that doesn't seem very likely, but then I know next to nothing about white goods).
c. The door lock (but would that turn out all the lights?)
d. The Sensor-NTC (don't know what this is)
e. The Regulator-Water level (would this turn all the lights out?) "

I see your dilemma having lashed out on a power board.
Start at the sealed mains plug and mains socket as I have these fail in a way similar as you describe.
As a general run as to how these things goof up:
a) operating module. Could be but not common, your very last resort. That is all I can say. b) Get the machine to screw up, remove the lid off the machine, any kids around tell them skadoodle off out of the area, pull out the out put connector wire pair from the suppress. Get a mains test light screwdriver and test the live input tag on the suppressor ( i.e. the brown wire and if you have zilch it is the lead or the plug or the socket, it is usually the moulded plug fooling around but if you do get a light via screwdriver test to that live tag on the previously removed connector block however, and better still, if you have a multimeter you can test live in, neutral out on the input tags and the output L and N to prove suppressor is ok or not. Suppessor failure is not common on these.c) door lock itself won`t be that but check its plug in wires d) NTC sensor is the electronic thermostat thing that is pushed into the heater. Won`t be that. e) the pressure water level sensor switch very unlikely but once again check its wires.

Normally I do not recommend any live testing for Joe Public but in this case this is the only live testing you should do to prove a point given the rather off beat fault that you have. Do not under any circumstances when live testing the suppressor accidentally slip the testing leads off the L and N output terminals, which are very close to each other, together unless you like a large bang and a blown fuse at the minimum!! Be very careful.
User avatar
1totalshambles
Valued Contributor
Valued Contributor
 
Posts: 280
Joined: Mon May 25, 2015 12:39 pm

by alpha123 » Sun May 20, 2018 12:38 pm

It turns out it WAS the sealed mains plug. I had already changed the fuse (even though the old one seemed fine), but it didn't occur to me that the actual switch would be faulty - at least not in a way that it would cut in and out pretty much at random.

So I've got a new mains plug and all is well.

Thank you very much indeed for your detailed reply. Next time I need some parts, I will buy them from you.
User avatar
alpha123
Whitegoods Newbie
Whitegoods Newbie
 
Posts: 2
Joined: Wed May 16, 2018 8:52 pm



 Support The Repair Community

How you can help in supporting out community is simple, just just use repairers from our online repair search if you need an appliance repaired

Buy any parts you need in our store that helps fund and maintain this website and the free use of it.

Don't use an adblocker.

That's all you need to do and we all appreciate your support and assistance.


Return to Washing Machine Help Forum

http://www.ukwhitegoods.co.uk/