Washing Machine Help Forum

[neil916]

Hello,
I have a fault with my washing machine.
Select programme..water fills..stops filling...then nothing.
Door switch o.k. water level switch o.k.
Tested water inlet solenoids..o.k.
Tested motor windings continuity and earth..o.k. Brushes look good,springs good.
Comm on motor in good condition, no burning.
Would like to bench test motor but can't work out how to couple up to three pin plug to socket as there are five wires. Black, Grey, Brown, Orange and blue?????
I have looked at the printed circuit board and there are no obvious faults.
Is there any other thing that could be contributing to this problem. I'm sure that the motor is o.k.
TIA
Neil

[clivejameson]

Hello neil
It is a common fault this, usually worn motor brushes but if you are sure these are in working condition and you have checked for continuity accross them whilst in situ then that clearly isn't your problem. The next thing to check is the harness connection to the motor from the programmer...they do suffer from broken wires here too, but not knowing which meter you are using its best to disconnect the harnes from the pcb before you test it.
If that appears ok then the next most likely is the triac on the pcb...this is not available as a serperate part from Hotpoint so if you cannot establish its workability and type then the bill goes up!

[Penguin45]

Check for water marks on motor and centre seal of tub. There are regular leak problems and the motor is in exactly the right place to collect the water. This will blow the board as Clive suggests.

Regards,
Penguin45.

[neil916]

Thanks Chaps,
I would like to bench test the motor and short of having a test plug,do you know how to wire in a 3 pin plug into the motor.
Cheers,
Neil

[neil916]

Checked out heater,doesn't appear to be working on programme, no supply voltage, element tested for continuity ok with meter.
Checked motor wiring o.k.
Looking grave, washing machine required daily in this house.
Cheers,
Neil

[Martin]

Neil,

Not knowing what type of electrical test you have carried out (i.e What type of meter you are using). And assuming the Motor and Heater, are OK as far as you can tell, then it must be the Control Module at fault (Part No: 1604321 cost around £70).

Ideally both the Motor and the Heater require a 500volt earth leakage check first to be sure, as it is not that common for a Control Module to fail on its own account

Martin

[neil916]

Martin,
I did carry out an ir test using a 500V Metrohm on both motor and heater element. No problems there.
I would like to know which wire is connected to the thermal cutout switch on the motor. I'm guessing that it is the grey one as I cannot open up the motor casing as it it riveted together.

Neil

[Penguin45]

Neil,
The TOC should be in line with the carbon brushes, so a reading across them will include it.

Please do NOT be tempted to connect the motor directly to the mains. It will instantly attempt to run at at least 15,000 rpm. Given that the motor is designed for electronic speed control (ie to get to spin GENTLY), you are very likely to blow it!

Plug the loom back into the motor and test from the digiboard end. If you have circuits through field, armature and tacho, it can only be the board.

Regards,
Penguin45.

[Martin]

Neil,

The WMA37 has no less than 3 different motors fitted depending on its production date. It could be a FHP, Bosch or Ceset Motor fitted generally the wiring connections are similar in layout. Usually Terminals 1 & 2 are the Tacho, Terminals 3 & 4 are the Field Windings, 5 & 6 the Armature and Terminal 7 the Half Field Tapping.

Martin

[lotusray]

just check wiring harness specially in rasp plug but also around front counter weight