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Beko fridge freezer will not switch on

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  • Beko fridge freezer will not switch on

    Can anyone help...
    I have a Beko fridge freezer which stopped freezing intermittently, when it was moved for further inspection it started to work again for a week or so, I switched it of and let it stand for two days before restarting and found all was good. three weeks later and guess what.. it stopped and wont turn on again, the compressor and fan are working when the black start signal wire at the main control board is disconnected from the board and powered up, both defrost elements are also working.
    reading through the forum ive got lots of good information about the fridge and freezer compartment temperature sensors but I am wondering if I can troubleshoot a little further first, the small temperature control adjustment in the fridge compartment only has resistance near the max position when tested at room temperature, all other positions are open circuit. I know this unit has minimal input but can it cancel out the compressor start up?
    can the fridge and freezer sensors be tested? both show no resistance when tested, can I simply order new sensors and connect to the circuit board to see if the unit starts up?
    Any help would be appreciated as I never worked on a fridge freezer before and value all feed back.

  • #2
    model number ??

    Dave

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    • #3
      Model No CDA539FW-2
      Serial No 1011343604

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      • #4
        It's probably a sensor issue but I can't be absolutely certain.

        The sensors used are:

        http://shop.ukwhitegoods.co.uk/43947...dge-air-sensor

        http://shop.ukwhitegoods.co.uk/43947...-fridge-sensor

        K.
        "Sometimes you get the best light from a burning bridge" Don Henley

        Cheap appliance spare parts in our store ? Find an appliance repair company here

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        • #5
          when trying to test the potentiometer what scale is your meter on

          have a look at the pot and its likely there is a value printed on it. your meter has to be on a scale higher than this to read it

          Dave

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          • #6
            Good advice guys.
            Your right Dave, after using a different metre the potentiometer reads around 1K ohms at MAX position, but this value can fluctuates about 0.200K.
            It reads 45.6 K ohms at the MIN position so I assume this is fine?
            Ive also checked out both sensors, one is 12.30 K ohms and the other 12.70 ohms.
            is it fair to assume that they should at least enable to compressor to start and run?
            Kwatt I don't mind ordering both sensors but it would be nice to rule out either the control board or sensors if possible, cheers for the above link.

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            • #7
              when you say the other sensor is 12.70 ohms or should it say K ohms ?

              Dave

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              • #8
                Sorry Dave, itís 12.70 K ohms

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                • #9
                  Sorry im only getting back to this issue now, if I run the compressor unit on a powered link and monitor both the fridge and freezer compartment air sensors the resistance value rises on both sensors, If I then remove my compressor link wire and reconnect every thing up as normal the fridge compressor runs for four to five seconds when powered up and then switches of.
                  if I don't run the compressor first with the link wire it wont switch on at all when powered .
                  Im assuming the temperature change in both conpartments is enough to trigger a faulty air sensor into starting the compressor up?
                  Think I will order the sensors from your link Kwatt and see what happens.

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                  • #10
                    Ok Guys, I've replaced both temperature sensors for the fridge and freezer compartment on my Beko and the compressor still does not run, I did however connect the fridge sensor on the outside rear of the fridge as the original sensor is encased with insulation, I assume it should be fine for testing when the machine is at room temperature?
                    Should I replace the main control board or just call it quits.
                    Any help is greatly appreciated.

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