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Beko CDA539FW appears dead

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  • Beko CDA539FW appears dead

    I have a Beko CDA539FW fridge freezer. Cooling/freezing has stopped and neither compressor nor fan running at all, but light comes on. No obvious fault with mechanical thermostat. I see references to a 'control board' for these FFs but surely my model with mechanical thermostat doesn't have one, nor can I see where it would be located. Is there an obvious/likely fault? I have multimeter etc - what tests can I carry out on compressor and other components to determine what may need replacement?

  • #2
    Re: Beko CDA539FW appears dead

    if you unit does have a mechanical stat that's the first thing to check first. use the mulitmeter to check for continuity between the terminals

    Dave

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    • #3
      Re: Beko CDA539FW appears dead

      As previously stated, the thermostat appears to be OK after testing for continuity, but I'm not entirely sure about its connections and cannot find any circuit diagram. How should I by-pass it to be sure?

      I have disconnected the compressor from relay etc and read resistances across the 3 terminals; the low and middle readings add up to about the same as the high reading, suggesting windings are OK. Is the relay or capacitor faulty, and can they be tested? Can I by-pass these to at least kick the compressor into action briefly?

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      • #4
        I have now replaced the thermostat with a new one but neither fan nor compressor is working. I still wish to ascertain which component(s) are defective and should much appreciate guidance as to how to test the compressor, relay etc. Surely such tests are fundamental and much the same for any fridge/freezer? Is there some aspect of this model that requires special attention?

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        • #5
          well first thing to check is the compressor getting warm ?

          if yes and the capacitor is ok then its beyond what you can do, in fact I cant even do them


          if no then there is an overload cutout mounted on the compressor that may be open circuit. If its gone it would be nice to know why and the why can be faulty compressor

          Dave

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          • #6
            Dave: With respect, yet again you haven't read my post. The light comes on and the thermostat is working, but neither the fan nor the compressor starts and runs at all. So, the compressor cannot get warm! What is stopping both the fan and the compressor from cutting in? Is there any sensor or PCB that I don't know of that prevents start-up - and can I rig a temporary by-pass to get things running? If not, then how do I test the compressor, relay and capacitor? (The resistance readings on the compressor seem to be normal.) Is the cut-out on the compressor visible and testable? If the compressor is no good, why is the fan also inoperative?

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            • #7
              I did read the text but is it possible for the compressor to be powered up and still not run. if this happens you may hear the overload stat going click every now and again but apart from the you get no noise.

              actually was asked to call out to an identical problem and the first thing I did was put my hand on the compressor. in my case it was hot. This meant I could say it not the thermostat as power was getting to the compressor. Therefore the only 2 likely faults are starting capacitor or failed compressor. changed cap no changes so time for a new fridge

              in your case you now know the stat is ok. the power wire goes directly to the compressor. it will go through an overload cut-out and feed directly in the compressor terminals

              as for the fan it may not run till things start to get cold

              did try looking up the wiring for your unit but the model is not coming up. I can find a CDA539cw-2 but that uses a PCB control system

              the unit does have a product number which I could look up on the above model produce code is 7228046314 your will be similar


              Dave

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              • #8
                Thank you, Dave. I have re-examined the unit. Yes, with power on there is a slight clicking noise, presumably the overload cut-out.

                So, does this mean that the compressor itself must be no good and the FF therefore a scrapper? Alternatively, would any other component be at fault and, if replaced, likely to restore normal operation?

                (I find the Beko spares listings confusing as often alternative parts (such as cut-out, relay) for a 'CDA539FW' are listed and it is not necessarily clear which is correct - and some of the compressor ancillaries are no longer available.)

                What does the timer module do? Mine has the motor-driven variety.

                If I do scrap it, there might be some re-usable components going begging!

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                • #9
                  problem with yours is when you search for spares they changed the complete operating system but not the model number

                  early ones used a hydraulic thermostat and a motorised defrost timer later ones used an electronic board and ntc's ( temperature variable resistors)

                  does have all the makings of compressor failure

                  Dave

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                  • #10
                    Thanks again, Dave. In view of what you say, I think I will scrap the pesky thing! But I'll remove the potentially useful components first and retain them.

                    The change in spec is certainly unhelpful when trying to diagnose and repair.

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