Whirlpool Fridge Freezer Clicking Noises
Various symptoms have been reported by owners of the Italian produced side by side American style fridge freezers produced by Whirlpool and sold under various brands including, but not limited to, Whirlpool, Maytag, Admiral, Hotpoint and Smeg. Basically, if your side by side fridge freezer has a water filter which looks like this one that "twists" in at the bottom grill, it's probably one of these machines.
The rear electronic control unit should look this one in the store and shown below.
Commonly the reported fault is a "clicking" from the fridge freezer, flashing display or a display that shows two dashes (--) as a fault. There are other symptoms that can indicate the capacitors on the PCBs as being faulty but these are the most commonly reported issues.
Chattering or clicking of relays is also a common indication of this fault.
It is also worth noting that other failures can and do cause these problems and we can in no way guarantee that this kit or information will successfully repair your fridge freezer in every instance.
This photograph shows the relays on the electronic PCB.
Whirlpool Fridge Freezer Forum Thread
Please, please do not start a new thread in the forum on this subject as it has been covered massively and very comprehensively in this thread that is already there.
We know that the support thread is fifty pages plus long but it is well worthwhile, if you do want to successfully repair your Whirlpool fridge freezer, to take the time to read the whole thing. If you need to get teh boards repair then please contact broddersbaldrick whio does, as far as we know, still repair these control boards for people using Ebay.
Mind Your Safety
Ensure that mains power is removed from the machine before you commence any work on it!
If you are uncomfortable working with mains power, electronic components and a soldering iron please DO NOT attempt this repair yourself and call an appliance engineer who should be able to perform this repair on your behalf using our engineer search to find a fridge engineer.
You Will Invalidate Any Warranty
Please note that modifying your appliance in this way (or any other) will invalidate any warranty that you may have, implied or otherwise. This means that any future warranty repairs, recalls or suchlike will not be supported by the manufacturer due to the modification of the appliance.
It is important that you understand that this modification is not supported by the manufacturer and that you will have no recourse in any way after carrying out this modification.
Solution To the Whirlpool American Fridge Freezer Problem
The faulty capacitors on the rear mounted and, often, front mounted PCBs fail and must be replaced for the machine to resume normal operation. It is important to remember that BOTH these electronic PCBs must work in order for the machine to operate as is should.
Front Control Board
The front control board, often referred to as the "user input board" is the front PCB mounted on the door and forms part of the control panel for selecting ice or water etc. As these boards vary from model to model it is not possible to give definitive information on how each should be repaired as there are several differing designs.
However they do all seem to have the same capacitors fitted in the same locations to the same value and these seem to be very hard to source. For this reason we would suggest that, if after this modification is completed and you still get a chattering or stuttering water supply, that the front user board is changed.
If however you do feel like trying to repair the current PCB you are looking to replace the three 0.47Ã‚ÂµF capacitors (C1, C2&C14) and C15, 0.68Ã‚ÂµF on the PCB. There has been some success in fitting two 1Ã‚ÂµF in series to these boards but we would not recommend this unless you know what you're doing.
Whirlpool Fridge Freezer Capacitor Kit & Rear PCB
We sell a repair kit which has all the capacitors that you require that are of a high enough quality which should prevent the same failure from occurring again in the life of the appliance and that are reasonably easily fitted. There are several other capacitors that can be used, many costing less, but they are not of the same high quality or as easy to fit in many cases. It is also absolutely vital that you use the correct type of capacitor or this fix may well fail.
Our repair kit also includes this technical note, the repair kit is available from this link.
Although this kit includes the capacitors that you should require to repair the rear PCB it is, generally, the capacitor marked as C1 on the control PCB that causes the issue. Over time this capacitor breaks down internally and fails to operate as it should do. Or suggestion is that this capacitor is replaced first and then the machine tested for normal operation.
Out of its housing the board should look as this one shown above does. You can see the group of capacitors mounted toward the rear, these are the blue boxes in this case although they can be supplied in various colours, shown below.
These capacitors are a particular type, Metalised Polypropylene Capacitors and as we stated, fitting the incorrect type of value may result in the repair not working. It also cannot be guaranteed that further damage is not caused by fitting the incorrect components.
The capacitor, C1, is shown highlighted in the red area of the photograph below.
This is the capacitor that is the most likely to be giving you trouble. However other faults, chattering relays and stuttering water from the drinks dispenser have been reported and these issue can be caused by the other capacitors.
If you swap C1 and that doesn't cure the problem the simple advice is to replace ALL the other capacitors as well. All the required capacitors are included in the kit to allow you to do this.
Shown in the photograph below is the two points at which the main capacitor, C1 is soldered to the PCB. Again these are highlighted in read and, as you can see, the ends can be bent over. Ideally you therefore want to remove the solder with a solder pump and carefully remove the capacitor, taking care not to damage the actual tracks of the electronic card.
If required, you will have to repeat this process with the other capacitors.
Please do note that we cannot guarantee that this will cure all instances of failure. Sometimes there is no option but to replace the PCB, often both the front and rear and that there are other components that can cause issues.