Washing Machine Spare Parts

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  Replacing Drum Bearings

Of all repairs that can be done to a washing machine this can be one of the most physically difficult to successfully complete as, more often than not these days it requires a complete stripdown of the machine.

The first thing you have to realise about a bearing change on any washing machine is that, if you're not confident in your ability to totally strip the machine and re-build it safely then call in a professional. This is not an easy job, none are two-minute jobs and it is very, very easy to make costly mistakes due to the involved nature of the work.

In the main there are two bearings in a washing machine. A lot of people take off the back panel of the washer and see the bearing that sits behind the pulley and think, oh that's easy to get to, never realising that there is one that sits in front of there as well as a water seal of some sort. This is why it's a problem.

The image to the right shows a typical bearing set for a washing machine or washer dryer. The smaller bearing is the rear bearing and does not take as much load as the larger bearing which the front bearing. In front of that, usually fitted flush onto it, is the water seal.

A typical set of bearings that would go into a washing machine or washer dryer, in this case a set for a Hoover washing machine

What will usually happen is that the water seal on the front bearing (which often relies on a brass bush on the drum shaft to seal against) will fail and allow water to pass into the front bearing. That bearing breaks down over time and, eventually will collapse.

Whilst the bearing is on its way out though, just like any bearing that is failing, it will start to get noisy and we get the fault of "noisy on spin" or "grumbling rumbling noise" when the machine is a few years old. Well, on most they're a few years old when the bearings fail. In more recent times we're seeing the bearings failing on machines that are younger and younger and now, on many of the cheap washing machines out there, we actually see them failing at a mere eighteen months old, some even within the twelve month warranty period.

Quite honestly service engineers on UK Whitegoods are disgusted at this development.

To make it even worse some manufacturers, notably Indesit (Hotpoint, Ariston and Indesit) and Electrolux (Electrolux, Zanussi, AEG and Tricity Bendix) have introduced sealed tanks where bearings cannot be replaced, you have to replace the entire inner working of the machine. The reason, they say, is to cut down production costs.

  Preparation Before Replacing Bearings

Basic electrical safety for appliances, more from the link Replacing the bearing or bearings in a washer is one of those jobs that you really need to prepare for. Have all the tools that you will need to hand, have a good look at what you're about to set off doing and how you're going to do it and geet ready. Make sure that you have the machine totally disconnected from power and water for this job and ensure that you have some old towels or suchlike to hand.

This is messy and you will get dirty. You'll also most likely get a pint or so of water on the floor when you disconnect the sump hose if you need to. The sump hose is the one that connects to the drain pump.

Also ensure that you have ALL the spare parts that you are likely to need to hand as the last thing you want is to stop half way through the job. You also do not want to miss a part that you should replace whilst at it, like a tub seal for example and this is where a little expert guidance can come in handy.

For what you need you can email our spares department who will advise and, in many common cases, offer a complete kit of spares that you need barring anything unusual on This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. or you can visit the forums where there is always helpful advice on repairs from the engineers themselves.

Most common bearing, drum and drum seals are available from our online shop and this link jump you straight to that section

  Getting Into Washing Machine Bearings

The first thing you have to work out (as do we quite often) is how to get into the bearings.

Depending on the machine this can be relatively easy or just an absolute pain.

Older machines that were well built were pretty straightforward assuming that there was no damage to the drum shaft (more on that later) as they had a "spider" on the back which you simply removed a few bolts to draw off, change the bearings and put it back on. I know that sounds easy, but trust me, on some it isn't just as simple as it sounds.

Some others, like Servis and Antonio Merloni based machines, have a bearing plate that is released by a clamp band at the back and the whole back of the tub comes off, heater included. This is probably one of the easiest to do and means that you have full access to the insides of the outer tank, so you can check for other problems. The downsides are that the seal for the rear really has to be replaced as well and that on these cheap machines the bearings do fail, often.

On Zanussi, AEG, Tricity Bendix, John Lewis and Electrolux machines (they're all pretty much the same regardless of what the marketing literature tells you) the cabinet splits and the back has to come off to extract the entire tub group. Had they put the bolts in the other way around that hold the two outer tub halves together life would have been so much easier, but alas they didn't. When this design was launched many years ago (it is about 14 years old or so) I asked why they hadn't put the bolts in the other way around as then bearings would have been made far easier to change, guess what, it saves on production costs.

Anyway, to get the tank out you have to disconnect everything from it and, I do mean everything, to extract the whole lot and then strip it outside the shell.

On a Candy or Gorenje washing machine as well as others things get even more difficult when changing the bearings as, not only does the whole tub have to come out but the only way that it will come out is through the top. This is a soul destroying job to do and takes much, much longer to complete, service engineers hate them for it. Not only that some are really a two-man lift to do safely without damaging your back just because of the sheer weight in them.

  Washing Machine Bearing Seal

This is probably one of the most important tips for when you attempt to change bearings, replace the seals. Obviously the bearing water seal just has to be replaced, there's no option but I'd strongly recommend that you also order the tub seal as well. The reason is pretty simple, until you strip the machine you won't know if it's failed or not and, putting in a dodgy seal can cost you the machine.

Inside a washing machine bearing

This is the inside of a washer's bearing so you can see the ball bearings running in the race encased in grease. If water gets in here then the bearings have had it!

To explain that, the Zanussi type tub splits in the middle and in there there's a kind of silicon seal which is hollow, it compresses and seals the two tub halves. Should that seal leak the chances are that water will drip onto the motor which is mounted at the bottom of the tub and, bang!

More often than not, when that happens you'll be looking at a new motor and module.

So there you go, the lesson is to replace the seal as for the few pounds it costs it is well worth it.

  Washing Machine Drum Damage

This is the brass collar that the bearing's water seal runs on The inner drum of the washing machine, some call it the "basket" is the (normally) stainless steel part in which you put the clothes. On the back of that there is a spider and a shaft and, on that shaft which slides into the bearings, there is normally a brass bush which you can see in the image to the right, on most continental machines (as well as a lot of UK brands) which, if it is damaged, will simply tear up the new water seal. You must inspect this very carefully for damage or the bearings will fail again within months of being replaced.

There are various other ways that this seal between the drum shaft and the water seal is made, but the above is the most common way.

Fair warning though, there are some crazy ways that manufacturers do this.

  Tools Required To Replace Bearings

Quite often you need specialist tools to replace bearings, some even require specially manufactured bearing drawers to get them in and out. And, whilst these may not be absolutely essential, they sure can make life a lot easier.

When tapping bearings in the greatest of care need to be taken to ensure that they will last any length of time. This applies even more so to the front bearing water seal as virtually any damage to that part alone will be the cause of another failure without doubt.

With many of the modern machines you will need a good selection of screwdrivers, spanners quite often Torx bits now and nut runners can save a shedload of time. In other words, make sure that you are well armed with tools for the job.

   Machines Where You Can't Replace Bearings

In recent years we've seen a phenomena known as the "sealed tank" or drum where the outer tank is sealed completely. Usually it's seam welded around the middle of the outer tank and, where this is the case the drum bearing of the washing machine or washer dryer cannot be accessed to replace them.

Apart from the fact that, as appliance repairers we think this is, frankly, disgusting it's also not good for consumers. It means that, on say a machine designed to last a thousand cycles or so, that the washing machine is effectively scrap after a couple of years in the main as the cost of a full inner tank is prohibitive. Or, you are forced to insure the machine against failure, any way you look at it, it's more expensive. Much more expensive.

Several public members and trade have now tried to find a way to replace the bearings on these types of machines and, to date, none have had any success in doing so.

You can find out more about these types of inner tank assemblies fitted to washing machines from this link

Drum gone, quoted £450+ for repair!
We have had our integrated AEG Lavamat Turbo L14710 VIT for 10 years+

Weirdly a white wash came out grey (no black socks in there!) and the next time we used it the drum made even more noise that usual and bam, that was it, no more washing let alone drying capability.

It is probably the bearings as per the information above. The call out charge was £77+VAT and the chap quoted £450+ for returning to replace the drum. So what do we do now, try to fix it ourselves, pay the chap to come out or cut our losses and buy a replacement? Typically this has broken down at the worst possible time; partner lost job and I\'m working around the clock to take care of our new baby and elderly parent as well as bills etc. That\'s life I know... chin up and all that. So, the point is what do we do now? If we cut our losses and buy something new which brand or model do we get to minimise chances of this happening again in the next couple of years?!

Paul Naidoo
Hi therePlease inform me on what type of seal(nitrale etc) that a Electrolux wascomat W244 uses.Does the seals need to be gresed when using sealed bearing .Thanks and God bless. Paul Naidoo
Hi, the problem that I have with my washing machine is that it' makes a lot of noise when washing clothes, I have cleaned the filter and found 1 bobby pin, after taking it out it still makes a lot of noise and feels like it will explode any second. What can I do to make the noise stop? Thank you.
Archie Smiley
Noisy washer.
Quote :
Hi, the problem that I have with my washing machine is that it\' makes a lot of noise when washing clothes, I have cleaned the filter and found 1 bobby pin, after taking it out it still makes a lot of noise and feels like it will explode any second. What can I do to make the noise stop? Thank you.

If it is noisy even when you spin the drum by hand, with a noise like something is rubbing or grating, then time to change the drum bearings and seal.

How do you split the outer drum casing on a hotpoint wmd960 p(uk)r washing machine any help as got it in bits already but just can't sepera the casing
I'm trying to replace the bearings on a JLWM1403The spider screw is a horrible torx type. I tried to remove it with a torx bit, but inevitably, I've stripped the head completely. I've tried various removal bits in vain (they all stripped also) Why or why isn't it a nut type head which you could get a decent grip on?Any clever ideas on how I can get the screw out, now tat the head is completely stripped?I've got so far, I don't want to give up now!
Neil P
Anyone know about the Indesit WD12X..a UK model.Have the top off and the exterior unit appears to be stainless, and not a plastic tank...or is the plastic (possibly sealed( unit inside that.Still not worked out how the drum unit comes out. Top? Front? back. And what about the rubber front seal, that seems to be bonded to the front panel.The rear bearing is fine, but the drum has a good inch or more play at the front, so internal bearing definitely shot.. Yet to see what the shaft is like.Is this likely to be a sealed unit? and how to I get it apart..front? rear? topThanksNeil
Kenneth Watt
Hi John,If you ask in the forums one of the engineers will likely advise.
john H
hi, can you advise on how to change the bearings on a aeg lavamat 50430. It about ten years old and is starting to rumble on the spin cycle. Will i need more that a bearing kit. Any advice gladly recievd?
Kenneth Watt
Hi Nick,Sorry we don't have any information on that model.

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