Cooker Hood Switches
Cooker hood switches come in a number of different formats and types as is the case with many components or spare parts. And, like most, they can be specific to a range or even a model where it’s a special arrangement of some kind.
You can have some with individual switches, some as a switchbank, some soldered onto an electronic PCB board and even some that are merely an input for a full blown electronic controller.
When replacing the switch in your cooker hood the power must be isolated and shut off or you risk electrocution. Please ensure power is removed before you commence any work!
Signs Of Faulty Cooker Hood Switches
The top reason for these to fail is that people leave the lights on the cooker hood on for hours for decorative effect or, as they forgot to turn them off.
They are designed for short term use whilst cooking, not as long term lighting fixtures so, the switch gets hot the solder breaks up and the board fails.
The answer is simple, don’t leave the cooker hood lighting on for extended periods and this will not happen.
Next is the cooker or extractor hood fan only running on some speeds. For example, if the hood runs on speed one but not two or three or, it runs on speed two and three but not one then the chances are that the switch is the problem.
Before You Order A New Switch
Before you order a new switch for your cooker hood, check it is the correct one!
There’s no point and, nothing more soul destroying, than stripping one out to find out you’ve order the wrong spare part. Never mind the hassle sending it back, waiting on a replacement and so on. Our advice, get it right before you begin work and don’t guess at it.
To find the model on most cooker hoods, remove the grease filters and have a look inside. Invariably in there you will find a small sticker or rating plate with all the information that you need on it.
If you need us to identify the switch for you that’s not a problem, best thing is to snap a photo of that sticker or plate and send us that, with that if the switch is available we should be able to find it for you.
Electronic Module Mounted Switches
In recent years the most common type is an integrated set of switches mounted on a small electronic board, normally these switches are are soldered to the PCB and often the wiring loom of the hood is soldered to the PCB also.
Ordinarily this will be then mounted inside a plastic box to protect the PCB and switches from the moisture and grease vapours from cooking.
Replacing the switch control module types are normally pretty straightforward for most people with a modicum of DIY skill but do keep in mind that, for some, you are working almost upside down as it were with wires dangling and trying to hold the switch module and solder it at the same time. It can be tricky and a right pain but, perfectly doable.
Just make sure that, if the wiring is fed through the casing, that you put the casing on first as you don’t want to be having to desolder then re-solder just because you forgot that.
With this kind you will usually have a switch on the board for lights and a few for the various fan speeds as required.
On older and often more basic cooker hoods you will find two separate switches, again normally mounted in some sort of box or container and often also with soldered wiring. One switch is normally for the lights and the other for the fan speed control.
Replacement is normally the same sort of affair as with a PCB mounted set of switches with the hardest part usually being working out how to get access to the switches then of course the hassle of soldering as often as not.
Again though, these are usually fairly easily replaced if you have a reasonable level of DIY skills.
Full Electronic Controller
Where there is a touch control, remote controls and so on you will normally find that the electronic control module is a plug in type and replacement is straightforward however, not usually cheap.